I had not given much thought to Cambodia and was not planning on spending any significant time there, if any. However, after traveling to Siem Reap a few weeks ago (see previous post), I could not help but return for one week, this time to the capital, Phnom Penh. I read and heard a mixed bag about Cambodia and Phnom Penh, in particular, prior to going. Most of it was negative. I heard about it being dirty, sleazy, dangerous, and rife with poverty.
Sure enough, in some areas were piles of trash, young children constantly approached me asking for money, people constantly tried to sell me books, dvds, or sun glasses, and tuk tuk and motorbike taxis offered to get me young girls (I have read the Cambodia is major exporter and importer of slaves, young females sold into prostitution.).However, I never felt threatened and politely declined to buy books, cds, or young girls from the barrage of touts. And that was most often that. (Unlike in Morocco, where I would be followed for ten minutes and, once, called a Jew for my unwillingness to buy anything) Sometimes children would stand next to me while I ate trying to wait me out I guess.
The country has been through many horrors. The U.S. killed hundreds of thousands of Cambodians during its bombing campaign in the Vietnam War. The Khmer Rouge controlled the nation from 1975 to 1979, committing genocide, killing two million people, 20 percent of the population. Civil war engulfed Cambodia throughout the 1980s. Since I have spent less than two weeks in Cambodia, I cannot really say how profound an effect this has had on the nation. My observations were simply from talking with a few people and looking with my eyes. Each Cambodian I spoke with had family members that had been killed. The country is littered with mines from the civil war. There are not many older people. And, many people with missing limbs approached me for money.
Regardless, or maybe because of, all the history and social woes, I found the city to be amazing and Cambodia to be a wonderful place. Cambodia, like Laos and Vietnam, is former French colony. Consequently, some of the architecture and beautiful boulevards reflect this influence. But most importantly, there are many cafes. I spent most of my time in Phnom Penh exploring the streets, wandering in parks, sipping cappuccinos, and watching the river. I relaxed and was not rushed.
While sitting in one park, where people flew kites, a couple young boys under ten years old who were with their mothers, came and sat next to me. I was reading a John Irving book and was a little hesitant to interact with the kids. One, my book was too engaging, and, two, up to that point, all children who approached were trying to get money. But these little buggers were persistent and one boy starting talking to me in English. Realizing that they did not want money we talked for a little bit (although I usually could not understand them), they gave me some bananas, offered me something like potato chips, and we watched the kites. When our conversation waned, one boy asked me to read to him from my book (by chance, the part I was in the midst of reading was an incestual sexual encounter but I do not think the boy understood). The two boys were reluctant to leave (maybe they were interested in the book), but their mothers smiled at me and the boys went on their way. At another park, surrounding a temple, despite my initial unwillingness, a woman did my nails. I was sitting on a bench and she came over offering to clip and such, my finger and toe nails. I said no but she sat down anyway and began preparing. I did not pull away when she grabbed my hand at which point she thanked me. It was my first time and was nice getting my cuticles taken care of, especially on my abysmal toes.
The city has a few major boulevards that are wide and tree lined. However most of Phnom Penh is made up of small streets, many lined with markets. This slide show has photographs of many of the vendors, streets, and parks of Phnom Penh.
Sure enough, in some areas were piles of trash, young children constantly approached me asking for money, people constantly tried to sell me books, dvds, or sun glasses, and tuk tuk and motorbike taxis offered to get me young girls (I have read the Cambodia is major exporter and importer of slaves, young females sold into prostitution.).However, I never felt threatened and politely declined to buy books, cds, or young girls from the barrage of touts. And that was most often that. (Unlike in Morocco, where I would be followed for ten minutes and, once, called a Jew for my unwillingness to buy anything) Sometimes children would stand next to me while I ate trying to wait me out I guess.
The country has been through many horrors. The U.S. killed hundreds of thousands of Cambodians during its bombing campaign in the Vietnam War. The Khmer Rouge controlled the nation from 1975 to 1979, committing genocide, killing two million people, 20 percent of the population. Civil war engulfed Cambodia throughout the 1980s. Since I have spent less than two weeks in Cambodia, I cannot really say how profound an effect this has had on the nation. My observations were simply from talking with a few people and looking with my eyes. Each Cambodian I spoke with had family members that had been killed. The country is littered with mines from the civil war. There are not many older people. And, many people with missing limbs approached me for money.
Regardless, or maybe because of, all the history and social woes, I found the city to be amazing and Cambodia to be a wonderful place. Cambodia, like Laos and Vietnam, is former French colony. Consequently, some of the architecture and beautiful boulevards reflect this influence. But most importantly, there are many cafes. I spent most of my time in Phnom Penh exploring the streets, wandering in parks, sipping cappuccinos, and watching the river. I relaxed and was not rushed.
While sitting in one park, where people flew kites, a couple young boys under ten years old who were with their mothers, came and sat next to me. I was reading a John Irving book and was a little hesitant to interact with the kids. One, my book was too engaging, and, two, up to that point, all children who approached were trying to get money. But these little buggers were persistent and one boy starting talking to me in English. Realizing that they did not want money we talked for a little bit (although I usually could not understand them), they gave me some bananas, offered me something like potato chips, and we watched the kites. When our conversation waned, one boy asked me to read to him from my book (by chance, the part I was in the midst of reading was an incestual sexual encounter but I do not think the boy understood). The two boys were reluctant to leave (maybe they were interested in the book), but their mothers smiled at me and the boys went on their way. At another park, surrounding a temple, despite my initial unwillingness, a woman did my nails. I was sitting on a bench and she came over offering to clip and such, my finger and toe nails. I said no but she sat down anyway and began preparing. I did not pull away when she grabbed my hand at which point she thanked me. It was my first time and was nice getting my cuticles taken care of, especially on my abysmal toes.
The city has a few major boulevards that are wide and tree lined. However most of Phnom Penh is made up of small streets, many lined with markets. This slide show has photographs of many of the vendors, streets, and parks of Phnom Penh.
I spent one day visiting S-21 and the Killing Fields. S-21 had been a Phnom Penh school. I believe it had four, three story buildings that had been classrooms.On the left is one of the buildings.
When the Khmer Rouge took power almost the entire city of Phnom Penh was emptied, as the government sent people off to farms. S-21 was transformed into a concentration camp. Of the 17,000 prisoners who entered the camp, seven survived. From S-21the prisoners were killed about 10 miles away, at the Killing Fields. Both are now museums.
I have never experiences anything like S-21. I walked into nearly every classroom, most of which seemed like it was left as it was found. A rusty metal bed frame and some chains. The energy was thick and almost drowning. The walls seemed to be covered in scratch marks. Other areas had been changed into small individual cells about six feet by 2 feet. Hundreds of these cells lined one of the floors. The major exhibit is of the photographs the Khmer Rouge took of each individual when they “registered” at S-21. Thousands upon thousands of black and white portraits filled the front and back of large display boards throughout one of the school’s buildings. The individuals all stared right at the camera. Many young men had small smirks of their faces. Other people looked crazed at the camera. Little children seemed confused. Several women appeared filled with rage.
S-21 does not have many other things on display. It is simple and lets the energy and images share the story. It bears repeating; I have never experienced and felt the way I felt when I was there. I had been told by other travelers how eerie and poignant S-21 was. However, I was skeptical that it would have much of an impact on me. I was completely wrong.
I have never experiences anything like S-21. I walked into nearly every classroom, most of which seemed like it was left as it was found. A rusty metal bed frame and some chains. The energy was thick and almost drowning. The walls seemed to be covered in scratch marks. Other areas had been changed into small individual cells about six feet by 2 feet. Hundreds of these cells lined one of the floors. The major exhibit is of the photographs the Khmer Rouge took of each individual when they “registered” at S-21. Thousands upon thousands of black and white portraits filled the front and back of large display boards throughout one of the school’s buildings. The individuals all stared right at the camera. Many young men had small smirks of their faces. Other people looked crazed at the camera. Little children seemed confused. Several women appeared filled with rage.
S-21 does not have many other things on display. It is simple and lets the energy and images share the story. It bears repeating; I have never experienced and felt the way I felt when I was there. I had been told by other travelers how eerie and poignant S-21 was. However, I was skeptical that it would have much of an impact on me. I was completely wrong.
After leaving S-21 I went to the Killing Fields, outside of the city. It was quiet compared to the city and as I walked around the dry fields navigating the hundreds of pits, I realized that these pits, with diameters of from about 7 to 15 yards, were where the prisoners were buried. Bits of clothing stuck out of the ground. In a Buddhist stupa monument, that is 17 stories high, over 5000 skulls are displayed.
As when I left Siem Reap three weeks ago, I am eager to return to Cambodia and explore some more. I may spend a few weeks there before I return to the States. I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas and New Years. When midnight struck in Phnom Penh, no one took notice except for a few drunk Aussies